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VSR 10 Gspec 1J Build: Simple but effective
So I recently did a poll asking what people would like to see build wise in the future, with a 1J build being in the top 3.
So with that in mind, I bring to you, the simple 1J build.
This is a short post as disassembling a VSR has been covered already and I haven’t had the usual amount of free time to get all the images and parts ordered. I’ll continue to update the post as and when things arrive, just conscious you’d all been waiting and wanted to get something out for everyone who voted.
The main purpose of this post is to give some general guidance on what type of parts would serve you well in a 1J VSR Build.
Initial Thoughts:
A lot of people need to stick to 1J limits due to their countries rules or because they want a sneaky quiet rifle with no MED.
Being UK based, I know people in Ireland are limited to 1J and a fair few UK players also like the 1J build as they are much cheaper than the 500fps builds.
1J builds are considerable cheaper than 500fps builds as you just simply don’t need to replace as many of the stock internals (depending on the base clone that is), plus they can be made extremely quiet.
My base gun was a mix of parts from spares, but I’d recommend a TM VSR Gspec over any of the clones as you’ll be using mostly stock parts and TM internals are a great start.
Build/Parts Used:
There are many options for a 1J build, depending on your starting base gun and budget.
Standard budget build I’d suggest the below:
-ASPUK "Sniper One" Hop Arm -Nineball Bucking or stock TM bucking (Sugru if you’re confident)
-Laylax High Pressure Neo Piston - Airbrake (45 degree) **Action Army Alloy Piston for VSR (45 degree) this was more for testing
-Polished Sears -PTFE Tape cylinder head threads and bucking to barrel. -Electrical Tape Barrel Spacer -Action Army Spring Guide -Laylax PSS10 M100 (Stock spring if you are using a 6.01 barrel) -PPS VSR Cylinder Head/ or stock head if you managed to remove it in good condition
Optional parts depending on budget: -Tanio Koba 303mm Gspec inner or -EdGi 6.01 303mm Gspec -ASPUK “Sniper One” Cylinder Head -Springer Custom Works S-Trigger -Laylax High Pressure Neo Piston - Airbrake (90 degree)
The above parts will mean the rifle will be more durable in terms of the trigger/piston, as the 90 degree route is better all round and should you wish to switch over to 500fps builds then you can.
The barrels are a nice addition, both being solid performers, the TK barrel has worked wonders for me in my old 1J builds paired with the Nineball bucking or Sugru/R-hop, due to the way the barrel is engineered it’s designed to work well with 1J builds due to the grooves cut into the barrel (almost like reverse rifling) and the way it makes use of the air flow. EdGi are great quality overall and always give great performance, but are expensive.
Another tip for helping make the gun quiet is to ensure that all cavities are filled with something such as foam, I’ve used various foams over the years and they are all pretty good, just make sure you pack it in there. If you get the “thwang” sound from your spring 2-3 wraps of electrical tape over the piston end of the spring will help.
Seeing as you’ll likely be up against AEG users who can get rounds down range quicker, you’ll want to ensure the bolt pull is effortless and smooth, enabling you to get follow up shots of quick if needed.
This requires a few little mods and tweaking, if you’re sticking with the stock 45 degree sears it’s worth giving them a good clean, polish, then lubricating them.
Make sure the piston o-ring gives a good seal and is lubricated with silicon oil, the piston should have minimal resistance inside the cylinder and should be able to fall our under it’s own weight.
In clone rifle cylinders, sometimes they have a smaller inner diameter than the TM VSR so you may need to sand the guide rings on the piston to ensure they fit smoothly.
Also on clone rifles the sear can sit to high into the receiver or to low, this can cause grinding and in some cases slam firing. You can resolve this by either adding 1-2 AEG shims by each screw to reduce how much the sear sits up or sand the receiver where the trigger sits if they are sitting to low.
Once you’ve tinkered and got the rifle back together you “should” have a nice smooth bolt pull like the below.
Performance:
Depending on the barrel you opted for, how good your air seal is, general fitment and bedding of parts, you should have you rifle sitting at 315-330fps on .2s.
If you’re using a 6.01 barrel and have great airseal, you should be sitting close to the 1J mark on the stock TM spring. If you opted to stick with the stock barrel or a 6.03, then you will likely be closer to 300 (this is what I had with stock barrel and bucking). An M100 spring should get you to the 1J limit if you stuck with the 6.03/stock barrel.
I decided on testing both the Action Army Alloy piston and the Laylax airbrake piston, I was expecting the AA to give a higher FPS as and be considerably louder, with the Laylax to have a reduced FPS due to the airbrake and be quieter….Oddly enough the Laylax gave a higher FPS (about 10) and was as quiet as expected.
The Laylax is slightly heavier so it could be this or that the seal was just better. Testing both seals they were both good. For this reason I suggest the Laylax. Once I pick up some decent .3’s I’ll update my findings as I think the Laylax may have a tiny bit of joule creep over the AA.
Accuracy and range were good with the stock TM bucking and TM barrel, the ASPUK hop arm offered a nice consistent flight path on .28s, with a slight bit of overhop, with a sugru patch and .3’s I think this would be very effective out to 60m.
Consistency was -/+ 2fps, this will likely settle down once the spring has worn in.
As for the sound, when shooting .28s through it with the standard Gspec suppressor it was very quiet, certainly wouldn’t be able to pinpoint it from 30”. Once I install the foam (holiday period so sadly little has arrived) this will certainly help improve this further.
Conclusion:
In conclusion, 1J builds certainly have their place on the field.
whether you’re limited to 1J or you just like getting up close and personal with no MED, 1J builds are cheap, effective and will almost certainly give you better shot to shot accuracy compared to most AEG’s on the field.
The cost to build an effective 1J build is easily sub £100 compared to the £300+ on a 500 FPS build, especially if you’re using a TM Gspec.
Having the sound and accuracy advantage of the Gspec with no MED, is great for people who play the more serious sniper role and rely on their ability to get close. It allows you to get shots of within that 30m area of play and remain hidden, while allowing longer range shots when needed.
Overall I’d recommend the 1J VSR build and will continue to tinker and update this one as and when other parts turn up and some little projects get off the ground.
